Basswood Bowls for Rosemaling in unusual shapes
The bowls in the top two photos are not for sale. The first was one of my bowls, one of many painted by Rosemaling artist Karen Jenson of Milan, MN. The second is by Ken Magnuson of Zumbrota, MN, in the style of Turid Fatland from Norway. They are examples of what rosemaling painters are doing with my natural edge bowls.
I turn Basswood Bowls especially for rosemaling painters and those who love a lighter colored, less “assertive” visual than the burl bowls provide. They are purposely less figured so that the rosemaling painters can make their painted designs primary. I most often apply an acrylic finish, but by request, I can instead apply an oil finish if that is what your painting requires. Just call me and ask.
Bowls are truly the most demanding and rewarding of the woodworker’s art. The bowl shape shows off the grain and color and allows good design to capture the uniqueness of each piece of wood. Phil can turn a bowl of any wood, but he searches out trees that show promise of unusual grain, burls (protruding growths on trees), color, spalting (“spoiling” in old English), or even from “trees with a story.”
Phil has been turning for 40 years and teaching for 35, yet each bowl still offers unique challenges. First, to cut cleanly and leave a flawless finish. But even more, to create a form that pleases the eye, does justice to the wood’s natural beauty, the “defects” and constraints of each piece of wood. A “Holtan bowl” tends to be translucently thin, with natural edges, often including the bark. My bowls for rosemalers tend to be a bit thicker to hold the bark edge more firmly and in order to stand up to all the handling from a painter over the course of painting a bowl
The bowls in the top two photos are not for sale. The first was one of my bowls, one of many painted by Rosemaling artist Karen Jenson of Milan, MN. The second is by Ken Magnuson of Zumbrota, MN, in the style of Turid Fatland from Norway. They are examples of what rosemaling painters are doing with my natural edge bowls.
I turn Basswood Bowls especially for rosemaling painters and those who love a lighter colored, less “assertive” visual than the burl bowls provide. They are purposely less figured so that the rosemaling painters can make their painted designs primary. I most often apply an acrylic finish, but by request, I can instead apply an oil finish if that is what your painting requires. Just call me and ask.
Bowls are truly the most demanding and rewarding of the woodworker’s art. The bowl shape shows off the grain and color and allows good design to capture the uniqueness of each piece of wood. Phil can turn a bowl of any wood, but he searches out trees that show promise of unusual grain, burls (protruding growths on trees), color, spalting (“spoiling” in old English), or even from “trees with a story.”
Phil has been turning for 40 years and teaching for 35, yet each bowl still offers unique challenges. First, to cut cleanly and leave a flawless finish. But even more, to create a form that pleases the eye, does justice to the wood’s natural beauty, the “defects” and constraints of each piece of wood. A “Holtan bowl” tends to be translucently thin, with natural edges, often including the bark. My bowls for rosemalers tend to be a bit thicker to hold the bark edge more firmly and in order to stand up to all the handling from a painter over the course of painting a bowl
The bowls in the top two photos are not for sale. The first was one of my bowls, one of many painted by Rosemaling artist Karen Jenson of Milan, MN. The second is by Ken Magnuson of Zumbrota, MN, in the style of Turid Fatland from Norway. They are examples of what rosemaling painters are doing with my natural edge bowls.
I turn Basswood Bowls especially for rosemaling painters and those who love a lighter colored, less “assertive” visual than the burl bowls provide. They are purposely less figured so that the rosemaling painters can make their painted designs primary. I most often apply an acrylic finish, but by request, I can instead apply an oil finish if that is what your painting requires. Just call me and ask.
Bowls are truly the most demanding and rewarding of the woodworker’s art. The bowl shape shows off the grain and color and allows good design to capture the uniqueness of each piece of wood. Phil can turn a bowl of any wood, but he searches out trees that show promise of unusual grain, burls (protruding growths on trees), color, spalting (“spoiling” in old English), or even from “trees with a story.”
Phil has been turning for 40 years and teaching for 35, yet each bowl still offers unique challenges. First, to cut cleanly and leave a flawless finish. But even more, to create a form that pleases the eye, does justice to the wood’s natural beauty, the “defects” and constraints of each piece of wood. A “Holtan bowl” tends to be translucently thin, with natural edges, often including the bark. My bowls for rosemalers tend to be a bit thicker to hold the bark edge more firmly and in order to stand up to all the handling from a painter over the course of painting a bowl